I was so hesitant to post this but I wanted to share my experience as a person, a person of colour and someone who has been in the industry a for a relevant amount of time, I wanted to show the honesty behind the scenes. Fragrance isn’t just limited to smell, it gathers a whole overlap of different worlds, including fashion, journalists and influencers. The comments below are my personal experiences, and if you feel a certain way about them - that’s valid.

My first ever event was when I was freshly just turned 18. Imagine: an overly confident, TikTok obsessed gen-Z-BTS-stan, so excited to finally meet the people I had respected so much online. Instead, I was met with polite stale smiles that didn’t reach the eyes and conversations that ended before they began. High-key it felt like being back in year 8 and dealing with the dramatics of a friendship group. . It was deffo then when it became clear that the industry world wasn’t just about smelling or looking good: it’s about playing the game. And gurl, the game is crazy.

In order to gage more of a context, I’ll talk about several points below. The one that most people - including consumers - will know about is the glazing/brown nosing. You have probably seen it on TikTok too, with the acceptance of PR gifts and instantly becoming ‘obsessed’ with the product, expressing it at every chance. But tbh in my early days (specifically posts from 2021) I’ve done this too - guilty lol. Also, If you’ve ever scrolled through some Instagram posts you will have deffo seen the OTT gushing over PR packages, the next-level praise for every new release, the subtle (or not-so-subtle) sucking up to pr people. It’s like watching a historical kdrama seeing the evil concubine and the Queen compete for the king’s affection .

Ok Now let’s talk about the husband: the PR ladies. Some are genuinely so kind and want to help, but others? Let’s just say their oxygen is power trip particles. I’ll never forget leaving an event of a brand I loved and crying on the train home because of the way a PR lady treated me. I also will hold a grudge to my grave so even though I have seen this pr lady several times after - I will always remember how I felt. Whilst I do hold grudges, I also do give the benefit of the doubt - and truly maybe she was having a long day and I get it. Also, I do want to clarify- I don’t victimise myself when I look back at these events- I’m grateful they occurred as they taught me lessons on how to be a tough baddie. But opportunities in this industry could feel like they’re reserved for those who can charm their way into the inner circle. If you don’t fit the mold, good luck getting your foot in the door. It’s like high school, but with more expensive perfume. But to be fair, this dynamic exists pretty much every where, even in the corporate work space.

The politics extend and leak their way into content creators and journalists, speaking of Chanel, I recently read a popular content creator’s Substack where they casually mentioned that reviewing Chanel is a privilege reserved for those who’ve been besties with their PR team for years. Low-key, in the moment I was gagged and it was kinda iconic but post read clarity it felt elitist, snobby, and honestly, a little gatekeep-y. But i get it - certain brands want to remain exclusive.

The social climbing in some industries are next-level. My mutual friend online in fashion expressed how people don’t just want to talk to you—they want to know who you know. It’s not uncommon to strike up a conversation with someone, only to realize they’re just combing you for PR contacts. It’s like dating, but instead of ghosting you, they unfollow you on Instagram.

And let’s not forget the subtle, covert racism. In many fragrance and beauty launches, I have seen it marketed around cultural aspects, yet at the party’s, the only invitees present, would be one demographic. It was a imperative reminder that while the industry loves to capitalize on diversity in marketing, it often fails to reflect that diversity in its own ranks. Also PSA to brands, using diverse models in your campaign but having an a team of only one demographic is not the only diversity we want. True diversity is there being all sorts of demographic groups of people behind the scenes too, making decisions, judging fragrance or hosting events.

Speaking of inclusivity, in some events there are photographers taking pictures, capturing Candids of the event, later on these images are usually uploaded to the brands socials and the PR company’s socials. I have witnessed and spoken to mid+plus size friends, who are also creators, and they have mentioned how brands will crop them out of images as their look will not align with the brand image. Or at events, photographers will slyly avoid taking their picture. This is weird behaviour and truly makes me question the ethics of the PR agency’s & brands doing this .

The British fragrance media scene is slightly better than fashion, but I and many other feel as if there opportunities to be made. At the majority of events it can be the same team of people, sipping champagne and swapping industry gossip. If your starting out in the industry and if you’re not part of a group, it may feel like you’re wandering aimlessly.

Let’s be clear: we’re not saying to push out those already in the industry. We’re simply asking for a seat at the table. The foundations of the fragrance industry rely upon creativity, difference and freedom, so why does it feel so exclusive?

Also putting things in perspective in the actual perfume industry, let’s look at the numbers. *me trying to look for the numbers*. Ok, Whilst trying to look for data or statistics on the amount of POC present in the industry (perfumers/evaluators) there were minimal statistics. Unfortunately diversity within the fragrance industry has been underreported so this in itself in my opinion, is telling. The majority of well established perfumers are again, of one demographic, French speaking and having some sort of nepotistic tie to the industry. (Tbh that in itself is a whole other substack to write about). Online, the lack of diversity is even more glaring. A quick scroll through popular fragrance forums or Instagram accounts reveals a sea of sameness. It’s not just about representation, it’s about opportunity.

So, what’s the takeaway? Literally idk. I just wanted to let out some steam (professionally). I’ll probs have processed it by next week.